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Jaisalmer
"Jaisalmer" means "the Hill Fort of Jaisal". Jaisalmer
is also called as the Golden city of India because the yellow sand gives
a yellowish-golden touch to the city & its surrounding area. An epic
movie by the master film maker Satyajit Roy is made upon an interesting
story of reincarnation upon the backdrop of Jaisalmer. The town stands on
a ridge of yellowish sandstone, crowned by a fort, which contains the palace
and several ornate Jain temples. Many of the houses and temples are finely
sculptured. It lies in the heart of the Thar Desert and has a population
of about 78,000. It is the administrative headquarters of Jaisalmer District.
The majority of the inhabitants of Jaisalmer are Bhati Rajputs, who take
their name from an ancestor named Bhatti, renowned as a warrior when the
tribe was located in the Punjab. Shortly after this the clan was driven
southwards, and found a refuge in the Indian desert, which was henceforth
its home. Deoraj, a famous prince of the Bhati family, is esteemed the real
founder of the Jaisalmer dynasty, and with him the title of rawal commenced.
In 1156 Rawal Jaisal, the sixth in succession from Deoraj, founded the fort
and city of Jaisalmer, and made it his capital as he moved from his former
capital at Lodhruva (which is situated about 15 km to the south-east of
Jaisalmer). In 1294, the Bhatis so enraged the emperor Ala-ud-din Khilji
that his army captured and sacked the fort and city of Jaisalmer, so that
for some time it was quite deserted. After this there is nothing to record
till the time of Rawal Sahal Singh, whose reign marks an epoch in Bhati
history in that he acknowledged the supremacy of the Mughal emperor Shah
Jahan. The Jaisalmer princes had now arrived at the height of their power,
but from this time till the accession of Rawal Mulraj in 1762 the fortunes
of the state rapidly declined, and most of its outlying provinces were lost.
In 1818 Mulraj entered into political relations with the British. Maharawal
Salivahan, born in 1887, succeeded to the chiefship in 1891.The Maharajas of Jaisalmer trace their lineage back to Jaitsimha, a ruler of the Bhati Rajput clan. The major opponents of the Bhati Rajputs were the powerful Rathor clans of Jodhpur and Bikaner. They used to fight battles for the possession of forts, waterholes or cattle. Jaisalmer was positioned strategically and was a halting point along a traditional trade route traversed by the camel caravans of Indian and Asian merchants. The route linked India to Central Asia, Egypt, Arabia, Persia, Africa and the West.
During the Islamic invasion of India, Jaisalmer escaped direct Muslim conquest due to its geographical situation in the desert region. The Rawals of Jaisalmer agreed to pay an annual tribute to the Delhi Sultans. The first siege of Jaisalmer occurred during the reign of Allauddin Khilji. It was provoked by Bhatis' raid on a caravan filled with treasure. According to local ballads, the Bhatis defended the fort for seven years until the enemy army forced beached the ramparts. Bhatis, facing certain defeat, proclaimed the rite of jauhar. Later, Sultan Ferozshah also sieged Jaisalmer after the rulers of Jaisalmer raided his camp at Anasagar lake near Ajmer. The siege led to another jauhar. Jaitsimha's son Duda perished in the attack. Duda's descendants ruled over Jaisalmer for about two centuries. Duda's descendant Lunakarna had a fight with Humayun when the latter passed through Jaisalmer en route to Ajmer. Mughal emperor Akbar was married to one of the Jaisalmer princesses.
Later, Jaisalmer was ruled by a noble called Sabala Simha, who won the patronage of the Mughal emperor Shah Jahan for services rendered in his Peshawar campaign.
Jaisalmer was one of the last states to sign a treaty with the British.
During the British Raj, Jaisalmer was the seat of a princely state of the
same name, ruled by the Bhati clan of Rajputs. The present descendant is
Brijraj Singh. Though the city is under the governance of the Government
of India, a lot of welfare work is carried out by him and his family. The
Royal Family still commands a lot of respect from the people.Traditionally, the main source of income was the levies on the caravans. However, the glory of Jaisalmer faded when Bombay emerged as a port and the sea trade replaced the traditional land routes. The partition of India in 1947 lead to closing of all the trade routes on the Indo-Pak border and rendered Jaisalmer a drought-prone desert backwater on the international border. Ironically, skirmishes between India and Pakistan gave Jaisalmer a strategic importance and made it serviceable as an army supply depot. Later, the Rajasthan Canal served to revive the surrounding desert areas. Roads and railroads were then built, connecting the remote town with the rest of Rajasthan. Later, the Government of Rajasthan decided to promote Jaisalmer as a tourist destination.
Rising from the heart of the Thar Desert like a golden mirage is the city of Jaisalmer. A commanding fort etched in yellow sandstone stands, with all its awesome splendour, dominating the amber-hued city.
The city has an interesting legend associated with it, according to which, Lord Krishna-the head of the Yadav Clan, foretold Arjuna that a remote descendent of the Yadav Clan would built his kingdom atop the Trikuta Hill. His prophecy was fulfilled in 1156 A.D. when Rawal Jaisal, a descendent of the Yadav Clan and a Bhatti Rajput, abandoned his fort at Lodurva and founded a new capital -Jaisalmer, perched on the Trikuta Hill.
Bahti Rajputs of Jaisalmer were fedual chiefs who lived off the forced levy on the caravans laden with precious silks and spices that crossed the territory enroute Delhi-or-Sind. These caravans earned the town great wealth.
For years Jaisalmer remained untouched by the outside influences. The rise of shipping trade and the port of Mumbai saw the decline of Jaisalmer. But the desert fortress, that seems to be straight out of the 'Tales of the Arabian Nights' still enchants.
The life within the citadel conjures up images of medieval majesty visible in its narrow lanes stewn with magnificent palace, havelis and temples and of course skilled artisans and ubiquitous camels.
The setting sun turning Jaisalmer into a beautiful golden brown is a spectacular sight to behold to experience which people from far and wide throngs the place regularly.
Best season to visit:
The perfect time to visit the golden city is during the Desert Festival, held in Jan/Feb. every year, when the city reverberates to the sound of melodious tunes and rhythms. October to February is the ideal season to visit for its climate.
Folk dances, exciting competitions and contests, especially the turban-tying contest. Mr. Desert contest and camel races enliven the festivities. Colorful craft bazaars are set up for the occasion and a sound and light spectacle is organized wit folk artists performing against the splendid backdrop of the famous Sam sand dunes on the full moon night. Surely a not-to-be missed event.
Reaching Jaisalmer
By Road
Jaisalmer is well connected to the rest of the state by well-maintained
roads. Due to its proximity to Indo-Pak boarder, special emphasis is given
on the maintenance of the roads. Deluxe & Ordinary buses of Rajasthan
Roadways & Private companies operate form Jaisalmer to Jodhpur, Jaipur,
Bikaner, Barmer, Mount Abu, Jalore, Ahemdabad etc. The main bus stand of
the city is opposite Railway station & Golden bus terminal is located
near State Bank of Bikaner and Jaipur, Shiv Road. Jaisalmer has this two
major bus stands.By Rail
Jaisalmer is connected to major cities of India through broad gauge as well as meter gauge railway tracks. Direct trains from Jaisalmer are available to Jodhpur as well as Delhi. For luxurious royal experience of Jaisalmer one can touch the city being a guest on Palace on Wheels one of the most luxurious trains of the world.
By Air
Though Jaisalmer is not directly connected to Airways as such, Jodhpur airport is 300 Km away. Jodhpur is connected to all the major metros of India by government owned as well as private airlines. From Jodhpur you can hire Cabs or take a train journey according to your wish and preference.
There is a domestic airport in Jaisalmer 9 kms from the city center. The airport is functional from 1st October to 31st March. Alliance Air & Jet Airways operate from Jaisalmer airport. Indian Airlines links Jaisalmer with Jaipur, Jodhpur, Delhi and Mumbai. Hotel Moomal, an RTDC hotel, houses the office of Indian Airlines.
Places of Interest
Forts & Monuments
Jaisalmer Fort
Known as SONAR QUILA or the Golden fort, rising from the sand, the mega structure merges with the golden hues of the desert ambience and the setting suns in its most colourful shades gives it a fairy tale look. Its simply a magic, the bastions envelops a whole townships that consist of palace complex various security sources and the havelis of rich merchants carved with an incredibly light touch, several temples and the residential complexes of the armies and traders placed strategically on the trade route, from where the ancient caravans passed en-route passing all the riches for the prosperity to an otherwise non source full kingdom. These merchants served and acquire a great deal of power and noble status in the royal courts of Bhatti Rajputs who founded the state in the 12th century and proceeded further. But the rich merchant inspired by the classic style of the royals, constructed huge mansions (ha
velis) adjacent to each other in the nature of medieval
culture and profusely decorated walls and ceilings and intricately carved
outdoors and interiors. The colourful art forms and some how side kind the
royal heritage and made it appear more pale in comparison. The craftsmen
were usually muslims who were induced on their journey to exhibit their
skills. The result was architectural purity that cannot be seen elsewhere.
A marvelous movie on reincarnation considered to be a children movie classic
was made by the master filmmaker Satyajit Ray in the backdrop of this fort
named SONAR KELLA meaning 'the golden fort' in Bengali.
Nathmalji ki HaveliTwo architect brothers built it in the 19th century. Interestingly, while one concentrated on the right, the other concentrated on the left and the result is a symphony epitomizing the side by side symmetry during construction. Paintings in miniature style monopolise the walls in the interior. Mighty tuskers carved out of yellow sandstone stand guard to the haveli.
Salim Singh ki Haveli
This haveli was built about 300 years ago and a part of it is still occupied. Salim Singh was the prime minister when Jaisalmer was the capital of the princely state and his mansion has a beautifully arched roof with superb carved brackets in the form of Peacocks. The mansion is just below the hill and it is said that once it had two additional wooden storeys in an attempt to make it as high as the maharaja's palace, but the maharaja had the upper storey broken down.
Patwonji ki Haveli
This is one of the largest and most elaborate haveli in Jaisalmer and stands in a narrow lane. It is five storeys high and is extensively carved. The haveli is divided into six apartments; two owned by Archaeological Survey of India, two by families who operate craft-shops and two apartments serve as private homes. There are remnants of paintings on some of the inside walls as well as some mirror work.
Tazia Tower
The delicate pagoda like Tazia Tower rises from Badal Mahal (Cloud Palace). Rising in its five-tiered splendour, with each storey graced by a delicately carved balcony, the tower is of historical significance. Muslim craftsmen built it in the shape of a Tazia and gifted it to their royal patron.
Gadsisar Lake
Gadsisar Lake is one of the major tourist attractions of Jaisalmer. Just
leave the madding crowd behind and venture towards the outskirts and you
will find yourself next to the famous Gadsisar Lake. Contrary to the popular
belief, it is not an oasis but a water conservation tank made around 1400
A.D. by the then maharaja of Jaisalmer, Maharwal Gadsi Singh. Can you believe
this structure just outside the city walls once acted as a reservoir that
controlled the entire supply of water to the arid city! This place was selected because it had a certain amount of declivity already and it automatically retained some of the rainwater. If you are lucky and venture out in winters, you might get to see a variety of migratory birds. Due to its proximity to Bharatpur, some of the birds get attracted to this place also.
You will find whole varieties of temples and shrines surrounding the lake. In later years it became more of a pilgrimage spot. The beautiful gateway that arches across the road down to the Lake was built by royal courtesan named Tillon in the end of 19th century, known as Tillon Ki prol (Gate of Tillon). Lord Vishnu's statue was installed in the year 1908 A.D. or the gate by the courtesan & declared Krishna Temple to save it from demolition by the then Maharawal.
Desert Cultural Center Jaisalmer
Desert cultural center and museum is a place where you will get to know about the rich cultural heritage and customs of Jaisalmer, a popular destination in Rajasthan. So if you are short on time and cannot mug up in library, this is the place to be. The place is well maintained and harbors rare coins and manuscript related to Jaisalmer history and the history of Rajasthan in whole.
This museum has some eye-catching collection of traditional Rajasthani textiles, utensils, weapons, musical instruments and fossils. One thing that is very popular among foreigners is 'Karal', the traditional opium mixing box. The place regularly organizes showcase programs for tourists. Try to get there before the mentioned time in order to avoid rush.
Excursions around Jaisalmer
Amar Sagar Lake
Amar Sagar is a small and beautiful lake cum Oasis and is adjacent to a 17th Century palace called the Amar Singh Palace. Maharawal Akhai Singh built this palace in honor of one of his predecessors Amar Singh. Next to the palace are pavilions with a large stairs leading down to the Amar Sagar Lake. This haveli has been constructed in the pattern of apartments. The Amar Sagar is a five story high haveli and is famous for its murals. Wherever you go in this haveli, you will notice beautiful murals painted with delicate efforts.
You can find many of wells and ponds in the surrounding which have a royal air about them. There is an old Shiva temple in the complex itself. Amar Singh built this because he was supposed to be an ardent follower of Lord Shiva, a Hindu God related to destruction.
Bada Bagh Bada Bagh, which literally means 'Big Garden', is located on the Ramgarh road. It was commissioned by Maharawal Jait Singh in the early 16th century and completed by his son Lunakaran after his death.
The site has three different things to watch, a garden, a tank and a dam. In the vicinity itself you will find Govardhan Stambh (pillar). This pillar was constructed to commemorate the construction of the Dam and the tank. In the local dialect the Dam and the tank are known as Jait Bandh and the Jait Sar respectively. It is believed that these are based on the name of the man who constructed them. The Jait Bandh is a dominating structure. It is about 1,200 feet in length and 350 feet in width. If you observe it closely you will notice that this has been built out of solid blocks of stone. The same material has been used for the construction of well as well as the tank.
Cenotaph
Other interesting monuments in the vicinity are the Cenotaphs. These cenotaphs also known as chattris and were constructed by the various Bhatti rulers. One cenotaph has been erected for each ruler. The oldest among them is the cenotaphs of Maharawal Jait Singh who reigned from 1470-1506. This tradition was discontinued when in 1947, one of the prince died of a mysterious disease. This was taken as a bad omen and thus this tradition came to its end.
Desert National Park
The Desert National Park is situated in the Indian state of Rajasthan near Jaisalmer. The Desert National Park is a protected sanctuary. The park is considered not only the largest in the state of Rajasthan but among the largest in India. The catchments area of the Desert National Park is around 3100 sq. km. The desert is a harsh place to sustain life and thus most of the fauna and flora live on the edge. Nevertheless this place attracts large hoard of migratory birds due to its close proximity to Bharatpur.
The great Indian Bustard is a magnificent bird and can be seen in considerably good numbers. It migrates locally in different seasons. The region is a heaven for migratory and resident birds of the desert. One can see many Eagles, Harriers, Falcons, Buzzards, Kestrel and Vultures. Short- toed Eagles, Tawny Eagles, Spotted Eagles, Laager Falcons and Kestrels are the most common among these.
The substantial part of the park is on a landscape, which comprises of lakebed of extinct salt lakes and thorny scrubs. It is a wonder in itself that how come living organisms flourish in these harsh conditions. Similarly, a considerable area of the Desert National Park consists of sand dunes. If you really want to explore the magnificent wildlife at the Desert National Park in Jaisalmer then the best way is by setting out on an adventure-filled jeep safari. And yes, don't forget to carry a really good pair of binoculars and any of Ultra Zoom SLR cameras.
Wood Fossil Park
If you are done with history then Akal Fossil Park is the place to be. For, it takes you beyond History. It takes you back to the prehistoric Jurassic era, which is, hold your breath, 180 million years back! It is a fossil park where stood a forest 180 millions years ago. Then the area submersed in to the sea and the tree trunks got preserved in the form of fossils.
The fossil trunks lie scattered in this park. Fossilized tree trunks are of various sizes with the largest being 13 meters in length and 1.5 meters in width. Covering about 10 sq. Km of bare hillside, the Fossil Park contains 25 petrified trunks, in total. The 21-hectare preserved area of the park lies about 17 Km from Jaisalmer on the road to Barmer.
If you happen to be a Conservationist or a Geologist by chance, try to get there early as tourists mar the spirit of observing it in minute details.
Khuri Sand Dunes
Khuri sand dunes are slowly picking up in the must visit charts of tourists. If you find Sam sand dunes a bit crowded then you can very well opt for Khuri sand dunes. Situated just 40 K.M. off the town, Khuri is a must visit for tourists seeking solitude in the desert. It is a peaceful place with houses of mud and straw decorated like the patterns of Persian carpets.
The Khuri sand dunes offer you a memorable experience in the land of the Rajputs. Enjoy the ride on camel back and let the place itself take you to its mesmerizing heights. Get closer to the local way of living with a close view of thatched straw roofs, camels, narrow streets and the local bazaar. At the night, organize a campfire with the fellow tourists (if any) and listen to the songs of 'Kalbeliyas'.
You can also try Rajasthani cuisine for a change and just keep looking on sand dunes as it changes its hue during different parts of day. And say adieu to the sun as it sets behind the crimson red sand dunes.
Lodurva
Lodurva is the ancient capital of Bhattis Rajputs and was once a flourishing city but lost most of the splendor when the Bhattis shifted their capital to Jaisalmer. Nevertheless this place is a major tourist attraction and attracts a lot of attention due to ruins of Jain temples. The most mesmerizing experience will be the peacock dance amid exotic Lodurva ruins. Yes, Peacocks are a great pull and they are in plenty here.
Lodurva is also known for its Jain temples. The temples are made of bright
yellow sandstones. Though in ruins, the splendors of these Jain temples
are clearly visible. You will find temple walls decorated with the pictures
of Lord Parsvanath, the 23rd Jain Tirthankar. The beautiful Jaali works
make these temples a piece of marvel. You will notice the splendid and dominating
arch in the main temple building. These arches are typical of the Dilwara
style of temple architecture. 
Mool SagarSituated 8 K.M. west of Jaisalmer, this is another pleasant, but rather neglected, small garden and tank. It belongs to the Royal family of Jaisalmer and was originally built as a cool summer retreat. The major attraction of this place is a Shiva temple, which is said to be constructed out of just two large blocks of sandstones.
Maharawal Moolraj II built the Moolsagar complex in 1815 AD. You will find numerous wells, the Moolsagar Garden and a splendid Raj Mahal built on its premises. Maharaja Moolsagar was known for his patronage to art and artisans and that becomes pretty evident when you come across some great murals on the palace walls. He definitely had a considerable influence on the wazirs and land-lords. Therefore his patronage to the art and architecture was resonated among his nobles and subjects. It was mainly due to his efforts that so many lovely palaces and structures were built in that period which was influenced by both the Mughal and Rajput schools of art.
Located 141 km from Jodhpur District headquarters, Phalodi is an old caravan center in the Thar Desert. This town was a trading center being on the land route from North Western India into Central India. The area saw a lot of movement in those times. Though various rulers ruled this city, it was originally under the rule of Rao Maldev Rathore of Jodhpur. Thereafter for a short while this town came under the direct rule of Emperor Akbar. But Akbar's policy of appeasement saw the town in the hands of the rulers of Jaisalmer.
Phalodi
Phalodi is thought to have been founded in the 15th century. In the books of history this town was famous for Jain and Hindu temples. It is believed that some of these temples are over 300 years old. There are a number of havelis in Phalodi. Most of them are typical in their style. Most of the havelis have their entrances towards the main road; special attention has been given in building Jharokhas and Jaalis to keep womenfolk in seclusion. Nearly all of them are painted in vibrant colors. Temples prefer bright yellow for the doors, a fabulous combination against pristine whitewashed walls, the sand and the colorful attire of the womenfolk.
Phalodi town is famous for its delicate 'jooti'. These shoes come in various shapes and sizes but will be decorated with heavy embroidery. You can bargain and buy some of these. If you like bangles then this place has to offer a lot. You can find it wherever you go in the town. A small bead jeweler's shop quickly puts together Bishnoi style necklace complete with enormous pendants. Correspondingly, workmanship and artistry of a high order also appears to be an inborn gift of the people here.
Sam Sand Dunes
There is no point coming to the Thar Desert if you don't go for the Desert
Safari. That is why Sam sand dunes are becoming the major attraction in
Jaisalmer. This is the closest place from where you can loose yourself in
'the Great Thar Desert'. Sam has a truly magnificent stretch of sweeping
dunes, with sparse or no vegetation. The best way to get here, of course,
is on camelback.Join a camel caravan at Jaisalmer on your Rajasthan tours and ride along the breathtaking crests and troughs. Enjoy the romance of solitude as your camel takes you deep in the hearts of the Thar Desert. Put yourself in the camp and experience the sun setting behind the horizon. Organize a bonfire with the fellow tourists in the night and enjoy the rustic and earthy music and dance of Rajasthan.
In the month of February/March, this whole place turns into a cultural hub. The desert festival organized amid these dunes is the showcase of Rajasthani culture as a whole. Open-air cultural extravaganzas, puppet shows, folk dance performances, camel races, competitions and general festivities mark this annual event that is held with great pomp and show at the Sam Sand dunes in Jaisalmer, Rajasthan.
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