{ India Tours } -- { Rajasthan
Travel Guide } -- { Bikaner }
Bikaner
Bikaner is a city in the northwest of the state of Rajasthan in western
India. The city is the administrative headquarters of Bikaner District.
It was formerly the capital of the princely state of Bikaner. The city was
founded by Rao Bika in 1486 and from its small origins it has developed
into the fourth largest city in Rajasthan. The Ganga Canal completed in
1928 and the Indira Gandhi Canal completed in 1987 has allowed the farming
of crops such as mustard, cotton and wheat. Other industries include wool
production and the mining of gypsum, plaster of Paris and bentonite. Bikaner (princely state) was founded in the 15th century and persisted until shortly after India's Independence in 1947. Earlier this region was known as Jangladesh which was a region of northern Rajasthan state in India. It included the present-day districts of Bikaner, Churu, Ganganagar, and Hanumangarh.
In the 15th century the Jangladesh region was occupied by Rajput clans, Jats, and Muslims. About 1465 Bika, a Rathor Rajput, sixth son of Rao Jodha, king of Marwar, started out to conquer the country. By taking advantage of the rivalries of the clans he succeeded; in 1485 he built the small fort at the capital which still bears his name, and in 1488 began the building of the city itself. He died in 1504, and his successors gradually extended their possessions. In the reign of the Mughal emperor Akbar the kings of Bikaner were esteemed among the most loyal adherents of the empire, and in 1570 Akbar married a daughter of Rao Kalyan Singh. Kalyan's son, Rai Singh, who succeeded him in 1571, was one of Akbar's most distinguished generals and the first Raja of Bikaner; his daughter married Salim, afterwards the emperor Jahangir. Two other distinguished chiefs of the house were Raja Karan Singh (1631-1669), who in the struggle of the sons of Shah Jahan for the throne threw in his lot with Aurangzeb, and his eldest son, Anup Singh (1669-1698), who fought with distinction in the Deccan, was conspicuous in the capture of Golconda, and earned the title of maharaja.
From this time forward the history of Bikaner was mainly that of the wars with Marwar, which raged intermittently throughout the 18th century. In 1802, during one of these wars, Mountstuart Elphinstone passed through Bikaner on his way to Kabul; and Maharaja Surat Singh (1788-1828), applied to him for British protection, which was, however, refused. In 1815 Surat Singh's tyranny led to a general rising of his thakurs, and in 1816 the maharaja again applied for British protection. On 9 May 1818 a treaty was concluded, and order was restored in the country by British troops. Ratan Singh, who succeeded his father in 1828, applied in vain in 1830 to the British government for aid against a fresh outbreak of his thakurs; but during the next five years banditry became so rife on the borders that the government raised a special force to deal with it (the Shekhawati Brigade), and of this for seven years Bikaner contributed part of the cost. Henceforth the relations of the maharajas with the British government were increasingly cordial. In 1842 Ratan Singh supplied camels for the Afghan expedition; in 1844 he reduced the dues on goods passing through his country, and he gave assistance in both Sikh campaigns. His son, Sardar Singh (1851-1872), was rewarded for help given during the Revolt of 1857 by an increase of territory. In 1868 a rising of the thakurs against his extortions led to the despatch of a British political officer, by whom affairs were adjusted.
Sardar Singh had no son, and on his death in 1872 his widow and principal
ministers selected Dungar Singh as his successor, with the approval of the
British government. The principal event of his reign was the rebellion of
the thakurs in 1883, owing to an attempt to increase the dues payable in
lieu of military service; this led to the permanent location at Bikanir
of a British political agent. Dungar Singh died in 1887 without a son; but
he had adopted his brother, Ganga Singh (born 1880), who succeeded as 21st
ruler of Bikaner with the approval of the government. He was educated at
the Mayo College at Ajmer, and was invested with full powers in 1898. He
attended King Edward's coronation in 1902, and accompanied the British army
in person in the Chinese campaign of 1901 in command of the Bikaner Camel
Corps, which also did good service in Somaliland in 1904. For his conspicuous
services he was given the Kaisar-i-Hind medal of the first class, made an
honorary major in the Indian army, a G.C.I.E., a K.C.S.I., and A.D.C. to
the Prince of Wales. The military force consisted of 500 men, besides the
Imperial Service Corps of the same strength.The state owes to this ruler the opening up of new railways across the great desert, which was formerly passable only by camels, and the tapping of the valuable coal deposits that occur in the territory. The railway from Jodhpur had been extended towards Bhatinda in the Punjab; on the northern border, the Ghaggar canal in the Punjab irrigated about 5000 acres (20 km²).
Drought is a common occurrence, and the region faced the most severe famine in 1899-1900. In 1901 the population was 584,627, showing a decrease of 30% due to the results of famine. The schools included a high school affiliated to the University of Allahabad, a school for the sons of nobles, and a girls' school called after Lady Elgin. The famine of 1899-1900 was severely felt.
When Maharaja Ganga Singh died in 1943 he was succeeded by the last reigning Maharaja, Sadul Singh, who acceded his kingdom to newly-independent India on 7 April 1949.
Bikaner was founded by Rao Bikaji, second of the 16 sons of Rao Jodha, the founder of Jodhpur in 1488. Encouraged and provoked by his father, Prince Bika moved out of Marwar (Jodhpur). On as ambitious military adventure, with a small contingent of Rathore warriors (500 soldier and 100 cavalrymen). His brave uncle, Rawat Kandhal, who always stood by him as his guardian and politico-strategic adviser, supported him. Those were the days when different clans of Jats & Rajputs inhabited this land and their chiefs enjoyed fairly good amount of autonomy, of course owing their allegiance to the sultanate of Delhi. Bika subdued all the contemporary chiefs and the Indian union after the British left this country in 1947 AD.
In the beginning the neighboring Bhati chiefs were suspicious of the new growing power in their vicinity. Karni Mata, the kuladevi of Rao Bikaji brought the rivalry between the Rathore & Bhatis to an end by inspiring Rao Shekha - the powerful Bhati chief of Pugal, to give the hand of his daughter in marriage to Rao Bika. This consolidated the power of Rathore in this region and proved to be a mile stone in the history of the state.
A small fortress by the name of Rati ghati was established by Bikaji (remains
can still be seen around the walled city, near Lakshminathji temple.) The
royal family of Bikaner lived there, till Raja Rai Singh Ji built a new
fort called "CHINTAMANI" (now Junagarh) between 1589 to 1593 AD.
The rule of Bikaner had a prominent and glorious role in history of India.
They held high ranks as Mansabdars of special order in the court of the
imperial Mughals. As imperial military commander of various campaigns of
the Mughals, they were posted all over the Indian sub-continent. Raja Rai
Singhji is the sixth ruler of Bikaner was among the first Rajput Chiefs
to join the Mughal alliance. The Mughal power in India declined with the
death of Emperor Aurangzeb in 1707 AD, the bonds of Mughals-Rajput relationship
slowly dissolved. The new era of Rajput-British relationship with the advent
of "British East India Company" ushered in. this European contact
later played a vital role in the history of Bikaner as the ideas of industrial
west started floating in. The reign of Maharaja Sri Ganga Singhji is marked
for great Socio-Political and economic development in every sphere of life
viz. - Education, Health, Sanitation, Water Supply, Power Generation &
Electricity, Irrigation, Post & Telegraph. Roads & Railways, Trade
& Commerce and so on- there is no subject untouched by this foresighted
Maharaja. When the British left this country, this state was ruled by Maharaja
Sadul Singhji.After the end of the British Raj, Maharaja Sadul Singh was one of the first rulers of the princely states, to sign the instrument of accession with India, and Bikaner became a part of India. After the reorganisation of states in 1960, Bikaner became a part, and the largest desert city in the state of Rajasthan.
Reaching Bikaner
By Road
The district is well connected with metallic roads with all nearby district namely Jodhpur, Nagaur, Churu and Sri Ganganagar. The National Highway No.11 connecting Bikaner with Agra also ends in Bikaner itself. The total length of different category of roads in the district is about 3,624 kms as on 31 March 2000.
By Rail
The total rail network found in the district has the rail length of 234.96 kms. The district is connected with Howrah by broad gauge and with Delhi, Jodhpur, Jaipur, Sri Ganganagar, Agra and Bhatinda by metre gauge railway line.
Air Transport
The nearest airport is at Jaipur (320 Kms). Hence truly speaking without a connecting mode by rail or road it is not really possible to reach Bikaner by Air.
Best Season to Visit
The best time to visit Bikaner is in the winter months (i.e. November to February) when the weather is very pleasant and travelling in the dry and barren conditions of Bikaner is comparatively easier than the summer months.
Places of Interest
A. Forts & Palaces
Junagarh Fort
It is an unassailable fortress, which has never been conquered.
Built in 1593 A.D. by Raja Rai Singh, one of the most distinguished generals
in the army of Emperor Akbar, the fort is a formidable structure surrounded
by a moat. The main entrance to the fort is Karan Pol [gate] that is east facing. Next to it is the Suraj Pol meaning the sun gate. The fort consists in it some very magnificent palaces like Anup Mahal, Ganga Niwas and Rang Mahal or palace of pleasure. The Har Mandir is the majestic chapel for the royal family for worshipping their gods and goddesses. These palaces, constructed in red sandstone and marble, make a picturesque ensemble of courtyards, balconies, kiosks and windows dotted all over the structure. The premise also houses a museum which is an array of a rich collection
of artifacts and other utility items of the previous rulers.
Lalgarh Palace
This grand palace is an architectural masterpiece in red sandstone, and was built by Maharaja Ganga Singhji in the memory of his father Maharaja Lal Singhji in 1902. Sir Swinton Jacob designed this oriental fantasy. This architecture is a fusion of Rajput, Mughal and European architecture. The exterior contrasts dramatically with the oriental interiors and amenities.
The palace has beautiful latticework and filigree work, which are hallmarks of a great craftsmanship.
The Palace has an amazing collection of well-maintained paintings and hunting trophies. Sprawling lawns with blooming bougainvillea and dancing peacocks make a visual extravagance.
B. TEMPLES
Bhandeswari Jain Temple
Bhandeswari Jain Temple is a fifteenth century temple and is the oldest monument of Bikaner. The temple is decorated with rich mirror work, frescoes and gold leaf paintings.
Havelis are ancient mansions of dwelling of the noble and wealthy. They are known for their opulent life style and intricate carvings and craftsmanship along with sprawling courtyards. Bikaner is full of such havelis and the notable amongst them belong to Kotharis, Rampurias, Vaids and Dagas. To view these havelis the suggested route is Gogagate, Daddhon Ka Chowk, Rangari Chowk, Assanion Ka Chowk, Mohta Chowk, Binnanion Ka Chowk Daga Chowk, BK School and Jassuar Gate.
Devi Kund
This is the site of royal chhatris (cenotaphs) of the House of
Bikaji Rathore, built in the memory of the Bika dynasty rulers. These offer
splendid examples of the Rajput architecture. While the Mughals built lavish
mausoleums for the royal dead, the Rajputs, with their flair for the novel
set up chattris. Open canopies with a robust eye for detail, they mark the
spots where each of the Bikas was cremated. It has a number of tombs dedicated
to various kings of the past. One particular tomb of interest is that of
Maharaja Surat Singh, built entirely in white marble with spectacular Rajput
paintings on the ceiling. One cannot miss the spectacular Rajput paintings
on the ceilings.Devi Kund sagar is situated 8 km in the east of city. The members of ruling family of Bikaner subsequent to Jet Singh, the great grandson of Rao Bikaji, have been cremated here. On the sides of reservoir of water lie the Royal cenotaphs of rulers of Bikaner dynasty from Rao Kalyan Singhji to last Maharaja Karni Singhji as well as those of their wives and other important members of families. There are cenotaphs (Chhatries) of 22 SATIES of royal family prior to Maharaja Gaj Sigh Ji (1745-1787). There is also one cenotaph of a SATA (male sati) of a ruler. The architecture of the cenotaphs is the prime attraction of this place. Maharaja Surat Singh's Chhatri is built entirely in white marble with spectacular Rajput paintings on its ceiling. Close by is a Dargah of Rustal Ali Shah Peer, which is held in high esteem by Muslim community and other people.
Deshnok Temple
The Karni Mata temple, 30 kms from Bikaner, is dedicated to an early fifteenth century mystic who was considered to be a reincarnation of goddess Durga.
The specialty of the temple is that it is inhabited by legions of brown rats which scurry around the complex without any fear. The rats are believed to be respositories of the souls of dead charans, the traditional bards.
Devotees offer milk, grains and sweets to these rats during the time to aarti. There are so many rats on the floor that people have to watch where they step. Sighting a while mouse is considered auspicious. It is believed that the Maharaja of Bikaner had a vision in which the goddess asked him to protect the rats and for this reason, there is bronze wire mesh across the temple.
Bikaner's ruler Ganga Singh built the whole temple in marble. The domes of the temple are made of silver and gold. The manadap and the panels above the image are also golden. Devotees place offerings in silver and gold when their prayers are answered.
The elaborate works on the main gate of the temple is a tribute to the fine craftsmanship of the artisans of those days. On the occasion of Navratri, this temple hosts a fair which attracts hordes of pilgrims from places far the near.
C. EXCURSIONS
Camel Research Farm
Camels are even-toed ungulates in the genus Camelus. The Dromedary
or Arabian Camel has a single hump, and the Bactrian Camel has two humps.
They are native to the dry and desert areas of western Asia and East Africa,
and central and East Asia, respectively. The average life expectancy of
a camel is 50 to 60 years. The term camel is also used more broadly to describe
any of the six camel-like creatures in the family Camelidae: the two true
camels, and the four South American camelids: Llama, Alpaca, Guanaco, and
Vicuña.Humans first domesticated camels between 3,500-3,000 years ago. The Dromedary and the Bactrian Camel are both still used for milk (which is more nutritious than cow's milk,meat, and as beasts of burden-the Dromedary in western Asia, and the Bactrian Camel further to the north and east in central Asia.
Spend a day with the indispensable ship of the desert at their camel research and breeding centres which is only one of its kinds in Asia. The farm extends over 2000 acres of semi arid land and is managed by the Central Government. These camels are sold in the cattle fairs of Bikaner and Jaisalmer where they are decorated in all their fineries which are colorful and attractive, complementing the brown terrains of the desert.
Gajner Palace
Gajner Palace is a spectacular architectural edifice in the Thar Desert built on the embankment of a lake. Built by H.H. Maharaja Sir Ganga Singhji of Bikaner, this Grand Heritage property is spread over 6000 acres. Gajner Palace served as a hunting resort by the former Maharajas and visiting British dignitaries during the days of the Raj. During the reign of Maharaja Ganga Singhji, this palace was used for grand shoots and lavish entertainment. Christmas season was often celebrated with prearranged duck and Imperial Sand Grouse hunting. Royalty, both, National and International, Viceroys and other dignitaries were invited on this grand
occasion. The Palace now has a private wildlife sanctuary, which is home to endangered antelopes like the chinkara, black buck, neelgai and other animals. During winter months, the lake becomes home to more than a hundred species of migratory birds, including the Imperial Sand Grouse.
While at Gajner Palace, one can see the photographs of the days of the Raj which have been meticulously arranged in the corridors. Each suite has been carefully restored to its original grandeur; right from the furniture to the wall paper, every little detail has been recreated.
During the stay at Gajner Palace, one should try a camel, horse or a jeep safari into the wildlife sanctuary. The wildlife is plentiful and the best time for the safari is the early morning or the evenings when the wildlife flocks to the lake to drink water.
Kolyat
Kolayat is located 50 kilometres from Bikaner. It is a temple complex of Kolayatji and a holy place of pilgrimage for Hindus. The legend has it that Kapil Muni the advocate of Shankya yoga of the Hindu philosophy while his amble towards northwest was struck by the tranquility and peace of this place and chose to perform tapasya (penance) here for the redemption of the world. This place has since acquired great sanctity. The complex has several temples, pavilions and bathing ghats. A dip in the holy waters of the lake especially on Kartik Poornima (November) is considered very auspicious.
Katariasar Village
Situated approximately 45 km from Bikaner, on the Jaipur road,
is the Katariasar village. The village provides a window into the ethnic
rural and cultural life of Rajasthan. The village has a rich wildlife around
it, consisting of Chinkara, Desert fox, Rabbit, Peacock, Parrot, Pat, etc.
this village is also famous for its fire dancers, performing to the beat
of drums on a bed of burning coals.D. MUSEUMS
Ganga Singh Museum
Popularly recognized as the best museum in the state, it displays a rich array of archaeological discoveries from prehistoric Harrapan and early Gupta period. Separate sections are meticulously maintained for systematic glimpses on paintings, arts and craft, terracotta, pottery, carpets, coins and ancient Rajput weaponry.
The museum is open to the visitors from 10:30 in the morning to 16:30 in the afternoon. Fridays and the government holidays are rest days for the staff of the museum and the internal maintenances are observed on those days. So the normal visitors are not allowed on those days. A meager sum of Rs. 3 is charged as the entry fees.
Sadul Museum
This museum is maintained in the first floor of the Lalghar Palace. It has a wide array of Georgian paintings and rare artifacts in its collection. A visit to the museum reveals the Maharaja's profound interest in art. It also houses a collection of the former Maharaja's personal possessions - which include an electric toothbrush, golf clubs, camera, passport etc.
The museum is open from 10 A.M. to 5 P.M. everyday except Sundays. Entry fee for the Indian Nationals is Rs. 10 whereas Rs. 20 is charged from the foreigners.
Prachina Museum
It's a museum located in the great Junagarh Fort. The museum
is dedicated to royal costumes, textiles and accessories. 'Poshaks' or the
ladies ensemble displayed are perhaps the last remnants of the traditional
designing styles and workmanship. The museum also reveals a study of changing
cultural settings in its display of family portraits of the former rulers.
Changes embarked by the western influences appear strikingly. The vivid
glimpses of legacy that survived in the contemporary Bikaner are also visible.
The museum is regularly open from 9 A.M. to 6P.M.Entry fee for an adult Indian is Rs. 10 whereas Rs. 5 is levied from a child or student. Foreigners need to pay Rs.25 for entering the museum. An additional charge of 20 is collected for the still camera and Rs.75 for video cameras.
Rajasthan State Archives
This Directorate is located in Bikaner. The archives have in their custody some very precious administrative record of Mughal period like Persian Farmans, Nishans, Manshurs, Akbarat, Vakil Report, Arzdasht, Khatoot and the record created during administration of the Princely states of Rajasthan such as Bahiat, Pattas, Parwanas, Rukkas, Chithiat etc.
Because of this exceptional collection of records the department is of immense value to researchers all over the world. Facilities like microfilming, reference library and research rooms are also available to researchers. An exhibition of important documents is also set-up specially for tourist interest.
The archive is open from 10:30 in the morning to 4:30 in the afternoon and is closed on Sundays and other government holidays.
BhartiSoftLand