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Other Attractions
Coronation Durbar Site
This is a sobering sight for people interested in the Raj. In a desolate field stands a lone obelisk, where, in 1877 and 1903, the great theatrical durbars featuring the Indian army and the full set of Indian rulers paid homage to the British monarch. This was also where, in 1911, King George V was declared emperor of India. New Delhi was originally to be constructed in this neighbourhood, until the architects Lutyens and Baker chose a new site that was less at risk of flooding, and one night quietly moved the foundation stone to Raisina Hill, where Rashtrapati Bhavan stands today.
Close by there's a shabby walled garden complete with a rogues' gallery
of marble statues of former imperial dignitaries, languishing like disgraced
schoolboys out of the public eye. Mysteriously there are many more plinths
than statues these days. Pride of place would have to go to a 15m-high statue
of the King-Emperor George V which rises ghost-like above the acacia trees.
It was placed here after being removed from the canopy midway along Rajpath,
between India Gate and Rashtrapati Bhavan, soon after Independence. The
place it was taken from remains empty, supposedly signifying the freedom
of India (see India Gate earlier in this chapter).These days this lonely yet historic bit of spare ground lies forgotten on the outskirts of the city, a reminder of recent ceremonies of lavish proportions that today seem distant and irrelevant.
Coronation Durbar Site is north of Old Delhi and is best reached by autorickshaw (about Rs 120 return from Paharganj) or by taxi. However, very few drivers are aware of the existence of this place. Ask for Radio Colony - the site is just north of the radio masts near the Outer Ring Rd.
Firoz Shah Kotla
Despite the fact that there were already at least three existing palaces in Delhi at the time (Siri, Bijai Mandal and the Qutb at Mehrauli), Firoz Shah decided to build a new one on the banks of the Yamuna River in 1354. This became Firozabad, the fifth city of Delhi. The city is thought to have extended from the Ridge north of Old Delhi to Hauz Khas to the south-west.The ruins of this city can be found at Firoz Shah Kotla, east of Connaught Place by the Ring Rd, a
lthough not a great deal remains of the fortress-palace
today, as most of the materials were pinched for the construction of Shahjahanabad.
The high stone walls enclose a peaceful garden, in stark contrast to the
mayhem of Bahadur Shah Zafar Marg right outside. The main structure is the
remains of the royal apartment, atop of which is a 13m-high sandstone Ashokan
Pillar dating back to the 3rd century BC. The pillar was erected by Emperor
Ashoka in Ambala and was brought to Delhi by Firoz Shah after he took a
liking to it. It is similar to the one on the Ridge north of Old Delhi,
but it is in much finer condition. The Brahmi inscription on the pillar
was first deciphered in 1837; it details Ashoka's edicts to his subjects.
Like other Ashokan Pillars, this one exhorts his people to follow the Buddhist
faith by observing the moral code of dharma - virtue, social cohesion and
piety. It also mentions a more modern concern - taxation.Next to the apartment building are the remains of what was once another fine Jama Masjid, built on a series of ground floor cells. Only the rear (western) wall remains. It is said that Timur prayed here when he sacked Delhi in 1398. As the mosque is still in use today, you should remove your shoes before entering.
The large circular construction in the middle of the garden is a baoli, or step-well, which includes subterranean apartments. The door into the baoli is usually open, but be careful getting down the steps as they're very dark.
In the dividing strip on Bahadur Shah Zafar Marg, right outside Firoz Shah Kotla is the Khuni Darwaza, or Bloody Gate, a survivor of Sher Shah's 16th-century city some distance to the south. Its popular name dates from the time of the Uprising, as it was here in 1857 that the sons of the last Mughal emperor, Bahadur Shah, were shot by a British officer, Captain Hodson, and put on public display. Local stories speak of blood dripping from the gateway's ceiling. The surrounding area has a distinct Islamic atmosphere and is worth a little wander. Entry to the fort, which is open sunrise to sunset, costs US$5.
Rail Transport Museum
This museum (t 6881816) at Chanakyapuri is for anyone fascinated by India's exotic collection of railway engines. The exhibit includes an 1855 steam engine, still in working order, and a large number of oddities such as the skull of an elephant that charged a mail train in 1894, and lost. There are also a number of lavish carriages that were used by British royalty, though the best is the Maharaja of Mysore's carriage, complete with rosewood bed and decorated with teak, gold and ivory.
There are a number of model displays with buttons to push, and displays on every aspect of rail transport you could possibly think of; there's even a Braille exhibit for the blind. A toy train chugs around the grounds throughout the day according to demand (Rs 5/10 for kids/adults).
The museum is open from 9.30 am to 5.30 pm (until 7.30 pm from April to September) Tuesday to Sunday; admission costs Rs 3/5.
Hauz Khas Village
Midway between Safdarjang's tomb and the Qutb Minar, this urban village surrounded by parkland was once the reservoir for the second city of Delhi - Siri - which lies slightly to the east. Interesting sights here include Firoz Shah's tomb (1398) and the remains of an ancient college. It was around here that Tamerlane defeated the forces of Mohammed Shah Tughlaq in 1398. Hauz Khas is now one of the more chic places in Delhi; there are some excellent (if pricey) restaurants and shops here.
Also part of the old city of Siri is the Moth-ki Masjid, which lies some distance to the east of Hauz Khas. It is said to be the finest mosque in the Lodi style. Count on about Rs 70 for an autorickshaw from Connaught Place.
Bahai TempleLying to the east of Siri, this building is shaped like a lotus flower. Completed in 1986, it is set among pools and gardens, and adherents of any faith are free to visit the temple and pray or meditate silently according to their own religion.
The lotus was chosen as a symbol common to Hinduism, Buddhism, Jainism and Islam: 'the lotus is part of the dream of all cultures'. The 35m-high petals are made of Korean concrete (later clad with white marble), which had to be cooled at the right temperature; during summer it was mixed with ice. From the exterior, the temple itself appears to float on nine pools of water, which create natural air-conditioning within. Attendants ensure there is no talking within the building; a reverential atmosphere of quiet prayer prevails. Those praying towards the heavens can appreciate the interlocking ribs of the 'petals' that are clearly visible on the interior of the dome.
The temple looks spectacular when floodlit at dusk, particularly from the air, but is rather disappointing close up. Open from 9.30 am to 5.30 pm daily October to March and 9 am to 7 pm April to September, the temple is just inside the Outer Ring Road, 12km south-east of the city centre. An auto-rickshaw should be around Rs 70 one way.
Urusvati Museum of Folklore
Urusvati Museum of Folklore (t 6149385) in Vasant Vihar displays arts and crafts from North India. It is open from 10 am to 6.30 pm daily and entry is free.
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