{ India Tours } -- { Delhi
Travel Guide } -- { New Delhi }
New Delhi
New Delhi, the latest and perhaps last imperial city ever, combines 20th-century architecture with a monumental 17th-century vision, and features one of the biggest palaces in the world, Rashtrapati Bhavan.
The main architects of New Delhi were Sir Edward Lutyens and Sir Herbert Baker, though assistants such as Robert Tor Russell were responsible for much of the detail, including the government bungalows, hospitals, police stations, lesser official buildings and Connaught Place. The complex geometrical city plan owes something to other imperial British regional capitals such as Pretoria, Canberra and Ottawa. Baker and Lutyens initially rejected Indian styles of architecture - Lutyens in particular could be brutally dismissive of Indians and Indian culture in general - but the final result shows many Indian elements melded with Classical design.
Connaught Place
At the north end of New Delhi, Connaught Place is the business and tourist centre. It's a vast traffic circle with a uniform series of colonnaded buildings around the edge, mainly devoted to shops, banks, restaurants and airline offices. It's spacious but busy, and you'll be continually approached by people willing to provide you with everything imaginable, from an airline ticket for Timbuktu to having your fortune read.
Be careful when walking around Con-naught Place as shoeshiners have developed a sneaky technique whereby they surreptitiously chuck a lump of shit on your shoe, draw your attention to it then kindly offer to clean it off for a fee. It's also not a good idea to put anything smaller than your elbow in your ear so try to ignore the glowing testimonials the ear-cleaning brigade show you.
In 1995 the inner and outer circle were renamed Rajiv Chowk and Indira Chowk respectively (the son within the mother), but everyone still calls it CP (Connaught Place) despite the signs. The outer circle is known as Connaught Circus.
Hanuman Mandir
This mandir (temple) built by Maharaja Jai Singh II, and dedicated to the Ramayana hero, is opposite the state emporiums on Baba Kharak Singh Marg. Surrounded by lac (plastic) bangle and religious offering stalls, and women touting mehndi (temporary henna tattoos), it is extremely popular and always busy. It is even more hectic on Tuesday when there is a market, a
nd during
festivals when devotees dressed as Hanuman leap and jump around the place.Jantar Mantar
Only a short stroll down Sansad Marg (Parliament St) from Connaught Place, this strange collection of salmon-coloured structures is one of Maharaja Jai Singh II's observatories. Surrounded by new office buildings it has an almost futuristic look, and is in harmony with its modern surroundings. The ruler from Jaipur constructed this observatory in 1710, and it is dominated by a huge sundial, the Samrat Yantra, or Supreme Instrument.
Just south of the Samrat Yantra is the Jai Prakash, an instrument designed by Jai Singh (hence the name, which means Invention of Jai) consisting of two concave hemispherical structures which together ascertain the position of the sun and other heavenly bodies.
South again are two circular buildings which together form the Ram Yantra. Each has a central metal pole, and the shadow cast falls upon markings on the walls and floor, thus making it possible to determine the azimuth and altitude of the sun.
Other instruments include the Misra Yantra, or Mixed Instrument, which stands to the right of the garden as you enter. This ingenious device makes it possible to tell the time in four other places in the world when it is noon in Delhi.
Once the site of political protests, Jantar Mantar has now been fenced in. The US$5 entry fee is not really justified as you can see most of the instruments from outside.
Lakshmi Narayan Mandir
West of Connaught Place, this Orissan-style temple was erected by the industrialist BD Birla in 1938. Dedicated to Narayan (Vishnu the Preserver) and his wife Lakshmi, the goddess of wealth, it's commonly known as Birla Mandir.
The temple is faced with red sandstone and is surrounded by gardens filled with man-made caves, waterways and gaudy creatures. There are a couple of cafes and you can even get a novelty souvenir photo taken.
Bangla Sahib Gurdwara
This large temple complex is the main Sikh place of worship in Delhi. With the customary tank and temple as well as an information office, kitchen and library it offers those not venturing into Punjab the opportunity to experience the amazing hospitality and tranquillity of the Sikh faith. Don't forget to cover your head, remove your shoes and wash your feet before entering.
Rajpath
The Rajpath (Kingsway) is another focus of Lutyens' New Delhi. It is immensely broad and is flanked on either side by ornamental ponds. At the eastern end of Rajpath lies the India Gate, while at the western end lies Rashtrapati Bhavan, now the president's residence, but built originally for the viceroy. It is flanked by the two large Secretariat buildings, and these three buildings sit upon a small rise, known as Raisina Hill.
The Republic Day parade is held here every 26 January, and millions of people gather to enjoy the spectacle. Three days later at Vijay Chowk, the open intersection at the foot of the Secretariat Buildings, the Beating Retreat, a much smaller parade followed by fireworks, takes place. During the construction of New Delhi, this was where the narrow-gauge Imperial Delhi Railway terminated. It was constructed specifically to transport the buff sandstone from Dholpur, red sandstone from Bharatpur and marble from Rajasthan. In the early 1920s there were over 3500 Indian stonemasons working on the site. The names of the architects and builders who worked on the buildings are
inscribed in the sandstone walls that line the rise from here up to the Secretariat buildings.
India Gate
The 42m-high stone arch of triumph stands at the eastern end of Rajpath. Officially known as the All India War Memorial, it bears the
names of 90,000
Indian Army soldiers who died in the campaigns of WWI, the North-West Frontier
operations of the same time and the 1919 Afghan fiasco. In the 1970s an
eternal flame, flanked by uniformed soldiers, was established in the arch
to honour the Unknown Soldier, though the shallow bowl on top of the arch
was originally going to be filled with burning oil for ceremonial occasions.Facing the arch is an open cupola which once contained the statue of King-Emperor George V, which now languishes in the Coronation Durbar Park. Despite plans to put a statue of Mahatma Gandhi in its place it has so far remained empty; some say this symbolises India's freedom better than any new statue could.
The best time to visit India Gate is at sun-set, when it is illuminated and large numbers of Delhiites come out for an evening promenade. The place takes on a real carnival atmosphere, complete with the usual gaggle of I hawkers and hangers-on that always seem to materialise whenever there's a crowd about. I As darkness falls, it seems as though every secluded spot in the surrounding paths and lawns is occupied by a canoodling couple.
Rashtrapati Bhavan
Prior to Independence, this imposing building at the opposite end of the Rajpath from India Gate was the viceroy's residence. Following Independence it became the official residence of the president of India. Completed in 1929, the palace-like building is an interesting blend of Mughal and Western architectural styles, the most obvious Indian feature being the huge copper dome which was camouflaged with black paint during the war years. It is the centrepiece of New Delhi, a huge, grandiose building (larger than Versailles) designed and positioned to assert the dominance of the British empire, despite the fact that by the time of its construction the British were already facing an increasingly effective Indian Nationalist movement. The building is dramatically illuminated during Republic Day celebrations in January.
To the west of the building is a Mughal garden that occupies 130 hectares. This garden is only open to the public in February; book through the Government of India tourist office on Janpath. At the time of Mountbatten, India's last viceroy, the number of servants needed to maintain the building's 340 rooms and its extensive gardens was enormous. There were 418 gardeners alone, 50 of them boys whose sole job was to chase away birds!
Secretariat Buildings
Designed by Herbert Baker and closely resembling his government buildings in Pretoria in South Africa, the North Block and South Block secretariat buildings lie either side of Rajpath on Raisina Hill. These imposing two-tone sandstone buildings are a skilful blend of classical and Mughal styles, and the baroque, cathedral-like central domes, decorated with lotus motifs and elephants, are surrounded by Mughal chhatris. The two red sandstone columns at the front of each block together represent the four dominions of empire - Australia, Canada, New Zealand and South Africa - and each is topped by a tarnished bronze model of a sailing vessel. Above the great gateway to North Block is the rather patronising inscription 'Liberty will not descend to a people: a people must raise themselves to liberty. It is a blessing which must be earned before it can be enjoyed'.
On the eastern face of each building are the foundation stones of New Delhi, originally laid by King George V and Queen Mary at the Coronation Durbar in 1911, when the move of the capital from Kolkata to New Delhi was formally announced. The stones were moved here at a later date once construction was under way (see Coronation Durbar Site later in this chapter).
The North Block now houses the ministries of home affairs and finance; the South Block houses the external affairs ministry.
Sansad Bhavan
Although it is another large and imposing building, Sansad Bhavan, the Indian parliament building, stands almost hidden and virtually unnoticed at the end of Sansad Marg, just north of Rajpath. The building is a circular colonnaded structure 171m in diameter, the foundation stone for which was laid by the Duke of Connaught in 1921. It was opened in 1927. Originally the parliamentary building was going to be an annexe on Rashtrapati Bhavan. After the Montague-Chelmsford reforms of 1919, which created a large assembly, the present site was chosen. There are three main chambers inside the structure: the Lok Sabha (lower house of parliament), the Rajya Sabha (upper house of parliament) and the library. The red sandstone boundary wall has carved blocks that evoke jali (carved marble lattice) screens. Although it's an impressive building, its relative physical insignificance in the grand scheme of New Delhi shows how the focus of power has shifted from the viceroy's residence, which was given pride of place during the time of the British Raj when New Delhi was conceived. Permits to visit the parliament so you can sit in the often-entertaining public gallery and view sessions in the public gallery are available from the reception office on Raisina Rd, but you'll need a letter of introduction from your embassy.
Purana Qila
Just south-east of India Gate and about 2km north of Humayun's tomb is the Purana Qila (Old Fort). This is the supposed site of Indraprastha, the original city of Delhi. The Afghan ruler Sher Shah, who briefly interrupted the Mughal sovereignty by defeating Humayun, completed the fort during his reign from 1538 to 1545, before Humayun regained control of India. The fort has massive walls and three large gateways.
Entering from the south gate you'll see the small octagonal red sandstone tower, the Sher Mandal, later used by Humayun as a library. It was while descending the stairs of this tower one day in 1556 that he slipped, fell and received injuries from which helater died.
Just beyond it is the Qila-i-Kuhna Masjid. or Mosque of Sher Shah, which,
unlike the fort itself, is in fairly reasonable condition. This building
is Delhi's finest example of theLodi style of architecture, which blended
Hindu elements, such as square pillars, with Muslim arches and domes to
create the first genuinely Indian architectural style.There's a small archaeological museum just inside the main gate, the top of which has good views of New Delhi. It's open from sunrise to sunset, and entry costs US$5.
A sound-and-light show, (t 4603178) (using poor-quality loudspeakers) is held each evening and costs Rs 25. English sessions start at 7.30 pm from November to January, 8.30 pm from February to April and September to October and 9 pm from May to August. Tickets are available on site or from the tourist office.
Just across the road is the Khairu'l Manzil Masjid, a 16th-century mosque built by Akbar's influential wet nurse and mother of Adham Khan, Maham Anga. The doublestoreyed cloisters were used as a madrasa (Islamic college). Almost next to the mosque is the imposing Sher Shah's Gate, one of the gates into his city which lay west of the Purana Qila.
Humayun's Tomb
Built in the mid-16th century by Haji Begum, the Persian-born senior wife of Humayun, the second Mughal emperor, this is a wonderful early example of Mughal architecture. The elements in its design - a squat building, high arched entrances that let in light, topped by a bulbous dome and surrounded by formal gardens - were to be refined over the years to the magnificence of the Taj Mahal in Agra. This earlier tomb is thus of great interest for its relation to the later Taj.
The tomb itself sits on a red sandstone platform, a practice that became a key feature of Mughal tombs. The walls of the platform are marked by arched openings leading into small cells. In these are many unmarked tombs, the graves of members of the Mughal royal family.
The main tomb is built with red sandstone skilfully inlaid with black and white marble. The central octagonal chamber contains the tombstone of Humayun but, as is the case at the Taj Mahal, the real tomb is some 6m under the floor on the lower level. (It's possible to enter the lower level, but you'll need a torch and a strong constitution - the smell of bat droppings is overpowering. The entrance is through the first arch to the right of the southern steps.) In each of the four chambers at the corners of the main tomb lie other important Mughal tombs. On the stone platform outside the tomb are yet more Mughal tombs bearing Persian inscriptions; one of these contains the headless remains of Dara Shikoh, Shah Jahan's favoured son and heir.
The 38m-high marble dome on the roof is one of the earliest examples of a full dome in India, although it was in use in Persia from the 13th century. (A 'full' dome is a complete hemisphere; up until this time domes in India had only been half hemispheres.) The chhatris on the roof serve to blend the curves of the dome with the angles of the rest of the structure.
The gardens surrounding the tomb are laid out in the typically formal Mughal pattern, and still contain the watercourses which divided the garden into 32 small squares around the main platform. It is probably the most complete garden of its type remaining in India.
Entry to Humayun's tomb is US$10 (and Rs 25 for video cameras). An excellent view can be obtained over the surrounding area from the terraces of the tomb.
Isa Khan's Tomb As you enter the tomb I area, and before you have to pay, a crumbling stone gateway on the right leads into the octagonal enclosure which contains the tomb of Isa Khan, a nobleman at the court of Sher Shah. With its octagonal form, small overhanging chajja (eaves) and chhatris on the roof, it's a good example of Lodi architecture. A few small patches of blue tilework give a tantalising hint as to how it may have looked when first built. A small mosque stands at the western edge of the enclosure.
Bu Halima's Garden The next feature is the stone gateway that marks the entrance to Bu Halima's Garden, although when approaching it from this side it's actually the exit. Bu Halima was a Mughal noble, and the stone structure in the garden on the left is believed to be her tomb.
Arab Serai Once through the main gateway (where you must pay the entry fee), today the main entrance to Humayun's tomb lies straight ahead, but it's worth making a detour to the Arab Serai, the northern gate of which is the impressive soaring structure to the right of the path.
The serai was built by Haji Begum, Humayun's widow, in the mid-16th century, supposedly to house 300 Arabs she brought back from Mecca. It is unclear whether these men were actually Arab clerics or Persian artisans brought in to work on the construction of Humayun's tomb.
Inside the serai is the Afsarwala Mosque & Tomb, but it is not known who was the afsar (officer) responsible for these buildings.
Most visitors to Humayun's tomb spare these buildings barely a passing glance, and virtually no-one crosses the somewhat overgrown serai enclosure to visit the impressive eastern gate of the serai, which still has some of its enamelled tilework in place. An inscription over the gateway indicates it was built by Mihr Banu, a wet nurse of Jehangir. The gateway gives on to a ruined mandi (market).
While you're here, if you leave the serai enclosure via the eastern gate and walk along the road for about 100m, you'll come to what was the main entrance to Humayun's tomb, the southern gate.
Return along the gravel path that runs alongside the western wall of the main tomb enclosure, and enter the formal garden surrounding the tomb through the western gate.
Other Attractions In the south-eastern corner of the garden is the square, twin-domed Tomb of the Barber, so-called because it is said to be that of Humayun's barber. Outside the enclosure in this comer is the Nila Gumbad (Blue Dome), an octagonal tomb with an impressive blue-tiled dome, thought to date from 1625. The domed tomb on the traffic circle on Mathura Rd is known as the Sabz Burj (Green Dome) and dates from the 17th century. The blue tiles are courtesy of the Archaeological Survey of India in the 1980s; the green, blue and yellow tiles below the dome are original.
Nizam-ud-din's Shrine
Across the road from Humayun's tomb is the shrine of the Muslim Sufi saint, Nizamud-din Chishti, who died in 1325, aged 92. His shrine, with its large tank, is one of several interesting tombs here. The construction of Nizam-ud-din's tank caused a dispute between the saint and the constructor of Tughlaqabad, to the south of Delhi (see Tughlaqabad in the Greater Delhi section later in this chapter).
Other tombs include the later grave of Jahanara, the daughter of Shah Jahan, who stayed with her father during his imprisonment by Aurangzeb in Agra's Red Fort. Amir Khusru, a renowned Urdu poet, also has his tomb here, as does Atgah Khan, a favourite of Humayun and his son Akbar. Atgah Khan was murdered by Adham Khan in Agra. In turn Akbar had Adham Khan killed; his grave is near the Qutb Minar.
The village itself, which sprang up around the shrine, predates New Delhi and is unique in the city. It has narrow, crowded lanes which are only passable on foot, and it is possessed of an almost medieval atmosphere. You'll know when you're getting close as beggars will appear and others will be hassling you to look after your shoes, which must be removed before entering the shrine complex.
Always a hive of activity, the shrine is particularly worth visiting around sunset on Thursday, a popular time for worsh
ip when qawwali (Sufi devotional
singing) follows evening prayers. This is one of Delhi's mostimportant pilgrimage sites, so dress appropriately and be prepared for lots of beggars.
Safdarjang's TombBeside the small Safdarjang airport in New Delhi, this tomb was built in 1753-54 by the Nawab of Avadh for his father, Safdarjang, and is one of the last examples of Mughal architecture before the final remnants of the great empire collapsed. The tomb stands on a high terrace surrounded by an extensive walled garden. It makes a pleasant retreat from the urban bustle, and there is a cool garden cafe nearby.
The tomb is open from 6.30 am to 5.30 pm daily, and entry is US$5. It's a short walk from Lodi Gardens.
Parks & Gardens
Nehru Park in Chanakyapuri is one of Delhi's major lungs. Extensively landscaped with material from the nearby Ridge, it has Indian classical music concerts and an artists' corner on Sunday mornings.
Buddha Jayanti Park occupies a major section of the 650-hectare Southern Ridge, west of Rajpath, and commemorates the Buddha's attainment of nirvana. The park has been planted with trees and shrubs associated with the life of the Buddha, including, of course, a bodhi tree sapling.
Talkatora Gardens, on Baba Kharak Singh Marg, were once a walled tank (tal means tank and katora means cup), and it was here that the Marathas fought an unsuccessful battle against the Mughals in 1738. These days it's far more peaceful, and is also the site of a major indoor stadium, Talkatora Stadium. To the north of Pragati Maidan on Mathura Rd is Appu Char, an amusement park with roller coasters and whizzy things and Oysters water park. The entrance is dominated by a large Shaktimaan (India's 'superman'), perhaps on hand should one of the rides malfunction. Entry costs Rs 10/20 for kids/adults and there are extra charges for the rides. It's open from 1 to 9 pm daily.
More traditional (and free) kids' entertainment can be found at India Gate's Children's Park, which has slides, monkey bars and swings within gardens.
Lodi Gardens About 3km to the west of Humayun's tomb and adjoining the India International Centre are the Lodi Gardens In these well-kept gardens are the tombs of the Sayyid and Lodi rulers. Mohammed Shah's tomb (1450) was a prototype for the later Mughal-style tomb of Humayun, a design that would eventually develop into the Taj Mahal. Other tombs include those of his predecessor, Mubarak Shah (1433), as well as Ibrahim Lodi (1526) and Sikander Lodi (1517). The latter is within a peaceful and overgrown walled enclosure, and there is the Tulaq-era Athpula (eight-tiered) stone bridge.
The Bara Gumbad Masjid is entered through a Lodi tomb, although just who it belongs to is unclear. The mosque itself displays fine plaster decoration. To the north is the Sheesh Gumbad, with the remains of the dazzling blue tilework that once covered it. The gardens are incredibly popular with members of Delhi's expat community and middle-class joggers. With its ponds, footpaths and shady trees, it also attracts young couples sneaking in a few quiet moments away from the prying eyes of the family. An autorickshaw should cost about Rs 30 one way from Connaught Place.
Museums & Galleries National Museum On Janpath, just south of Rajpath, the National Museum (t 301 9272) has a good collection of Indian bronzes, terracotta and wood sculptures dating back to the Mauryan period (3rd-2nd century BC), exhibits from the Vijayanagar period in South India, miniature and mural paintings, Mughal clothes, tapestries, ornaments and manuscripts, costumes of the various tribal peoples and a wide array of musical instruments.
The ground floor features the prehistoric age, with a gallery dedicated to prehistory and the Indus Valley civilisation. This includes the famous bronze dancing girl statue from Mohenjodaro, the important archaeological site located in modern-day Pakistan, the discovery of which proved that there was a civilisation developing in that region simultaneously with civilisations in Egypt, China and Sumer (in present-day Iraq).
The next four ground-floor galleries are filled with sculpture and jewellery, including pieces from the Greek-influenced Gandhara period (3rd-2nd century BC) such as Buddhas dressed in togas are much more sensuous in form than the terracotta figures from the Gupta period (6th-4th century AD), including images of the river goddesses Ganga and Yamuna.
Some of the treasures on the first floor include miniature paintings from Rajasthan and Uttarakhand, Tanjore paintings on glass, illustrated manuscripts, Central Asian Buddhist antiquities and the autographed memoirs of the Mughal Emperor Jehangir.
The 2nd-floor galleries include a wonderful collection of weapons (deadly but beautiful) and musical instruments, and a section devoted to tribal arts and artefacts.
The museum, open from 10 am to 5 pm Tuesday to Sunday, offers free guided tours at 10.30 and 11.30 am, noon and 2 pm and is definitely worth visiting. Admission is Rs 5/150 for Indians/foreigners. There are films shown on weekends.
Next door is the Archaeological Survey of India office. Publications available here cover all the main sites in India, many of which are not available at the particular sites themselves. The office is open from 9 am to 1 pm and 3.30 to 5
pm Monday to Friday.
National Gallery of Modern Art This gallery (t 3382835) is near India Gate at the eastern end of Rajpath, and was formerly the Delhi residence of the Maharaja of Jaipur. It houses an excellent collection of works by both Indian, colonial and international artists, and has a reference library. It is open from 10 am to 5 pm Tuesday to Sunday, and admission is Rs 5/150 for Indians/foreigners, although you can wander through the sculpture garden for free.
National Museum of Natural History
The natural history museum (t 3314849) is opposite the Nepali embassy on Barakhamba Rd. Fronted by a large model dinosaur, it has
a collection of
fossils, stuffed animals and birds, and a 'hands-on' discovery room for
children. It's open from 10 am to 5 pm Tuesday to Sunday.Nehru Memorial Museum & Planetarium On Teen Murti Rd near Chanakyapuri, the residence of Jawaharlal Nehru, Teen Murti Bhavan, has been converted into a museum. Photographs and newspaper clippings on display give a fascinating insight into the history of the independence movement. The museum is open from 10 am to 5 pm Tuesday to Sunday. Admission is free.
There's also a planetarium in the grounds (40-minute shows in English at 11.30 am and 3 pm, Rs 10), above which is a small cafe.
The monument on the mound by the planetarium is the Kushk Mahal, thought to have been a hunting lodge during the reign of Firoz Shah.
Tibet House This museum (t 4611515) in New Delhi has a small but fascinating collection of ceremonial items brought out of Tibet when the Dalai Lama fled following the Chinese occupation. There are a couple of shops selling a wide range of Tibetan handicrafts and literature, and there are often lectures and discussion sessions held here. The museum, on Lodi Rd, is open from 10 am to 1 pm and 2 to 5.30 pm Monday to Friday. Admission to the museum is Rs 5. Exhibition Grounds There are a few museums and exhibitions at Pragati Maidan on Mathura Rd. The Crafts Museum (t 337 1817) contains a collection of traditional Indian crafts in textiles, metal, wood and ceramics, and in many cases you can see the artisans at work. The museum is part of a 'village life' complex where you can visit rural India without leaving Delhi - there are recreations of rural huts found throughout the country. There's also a pretty reasonable crafts shop.
Opening hours are from 10 am to 5.30 pm Tuesday to Sunday, and admission is free. The museum is accessible through Pragati Maidan or from Bhairon Marg, opposite Purana Qila.
Other exhibits include the National Science Centre (t 3371873), Nehru Pavilion, the Son of India (Sanjay Gandhi), Defence and Atomic Energy.
Gandhi Smriti This house on Tees January Marg was the former home of the well-known industrialist BD Birla, and is where Mahatma Gandhi used to stay during his many visits to Delhi. It was during one of these visits that he was assassinated by a Hindu fanatic in 1948.
These days it's another museum dedicated to Gandhi (t 3014849). There is memorabilia tracing Gandhi's life and dioramas of major events in the Independence struggle. A small pillar in the back garden marks the spot where Gandhi was shot, and bizarre concrete footprints trace his last walk from the house to the garden. The house is open from 10 am to 5 pm Tuesday to Sunday. Admission is free and there is a khadi (homespun cloth) shop and a book shop.
Indira Gandhi Memorial Museum
The former residence of Indira Gandhi at 1 Safdarjang Rd has also been converted into a museum (t 3010094). On show are some of her personal effects, including the sari she was wearing at the time of her assassination (complete with blood stains). The crystal plaque in the garden, flanked constantly by two soldiers, protects a few brown spots of Mrs Gandhi's blood where she fell after being shot by two of her Sikh bodyguards in December 1984.
Opening hours are from 9.30 am to 4.45 pm Tuesday to Sunday, but it's a good idea to avoid weekends when hordes of Indian tourists are herded through. Admission is free. You're not allowed to take food or water in.
Sangeet Natak Akademi A major performing arts centre with substantial archival material, Sangeet Natak Akademi (t 338 7248) is at 35 Firoz Shah Rd, Rabindra Bhavan. The academy of fine arts and sculpture, Lalit Kala Akademi and the literature academy, Shahitya Akademi, are also here in separate wings.
The academy has a large archive of audio and video footage, a library and an exhibition of musical instruments and costumes. It is open from 9 am to 6 pm Monday to Friday; entry is free.
Shankar's International Dolls Museum
In Nehru House on Bahadur Shah Zafar Marg, this museum (t 3316970) displays 6000 dolls from 85 countries. More that one-third of them are from India and one exhibit comprises 500 dolls in the costumes worn all over India. The museum is open from 10 am to 5.30 pm Tuesday to Sunday. Admission is free and there is also a children's library.
National Philatelic Museum The National Philatelic Museum (t 3710154), hidden in the post office at Dak Bhavan, Sardar Patel Chowk on Sansad Marg, has an extensive collection. It's open from 9.30 am to 4.30 pm Monday to Friday.
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